So, I bought this bunch of planes in this pile which is shown with all the other weekend finds. Included at the bottom of the pile was this Millers Falls #10.
But when I pulled it from the pile it looked like this.
I figured since this plane need almost anything a plane restore could need, I would expand on it a bit and talk about my methodology for metal bench plane restoration.
I figured since this plane need almost anything a plane restore could need, I would expand on it a bit and talk about my methodology for metal bench plane restoration.
First i should note that you may find the occasional picture from another plane restore. I’m not trying to trick anyone, just get the details in and I can’t guarantee i have all the pictures I need from the Millers Falls #10. Most of my planes are Stanleys, but I have to admit I have a sort of soft spot for the good Millers Falls planes. Maybe its because they are the underdog, or maybe its the brighter shinier metal that I usually have to strip because its flaking away, either way, here we go.
First I take it all apart and put the parts in a plastic container. That to keep all the parts together as best as i can. I tend to have multiple projects happening in my shop, and sinse I don’t do this for a living, its possible i don’t get back for a few day or a week. I don’t want to have to remember where I put the parts.
Lets talk about the japanning. I’m a firm believer in leaving the japanning on an older plane if its reasonable. It could increase the value of the plane, but a lot of the planes I find the japanning is shot. Determining what to do next will take some trial and error if you’ve never done it, but here is what I use.
Electrolysis. Its a a great process and will get rid of the rust, or at least make it easy to brush off. I have used it and I will continue to use it at times. The draw backs are this. It takes a little time. You need to get it set up and it typically takes over night for most planes. You need a plastic container big eno0ug for the piece your de-rusting and you need a battery charger. I will guarantee once you’ve used it you will continue if you plane to do this often.
Evapo-rust. Sold at some Tractor Supply’s and internet sites. Its $20 a gallon so its more expensive than electrolysis. A gallon will do a quit a few plane and other tools though. Just set the piece in it and let it set over night. Again the rust will either wipe off or wire brush right off the next day.
Sand Blasting. My favorite for planes that you know you need to paint. I bought a $30 sand blasting gun at amazon.com and haven’t looked back. Again, I try to leave the japanning if I can, but if it needs painting this is the way to go. Screened play sand will work just fine, but I bought some ############ which works a little better. Don’t be afraid to stick with the play sand for a while. Its does a fine job. The draw back is you need a decent air compressor.
The old fashion way. Wire brushes and scrapers and screw drivers and sand paper and whatever else you have to work the stuff off. This is the hardest way, but if you palne to only do one or two, it may be your choice.
This is what the Millers Falls looked like when it came out of the evapo-rust. I had hopes I could save it, but there was to much rust under the japanning that I didn’t see until it was lifted.
I knew it needed to be painted, so lets break out the sand blaster.
I also created a small blasting cabinet. You can re-use the media and it keeps it contained. Plus it doesn’t get all over my shop.
Note most of it is plastic except for a piece of glass in the front. That’s so its easier to wipe off and see through. I set it on my bench on a flat piece of steel (plywood would work too) to catch the sand.
It takes me 30-40 minute to setup and clean a base.
Take a look at my #8c restore for more picture of before and after sandblasting.
Next you will want to wire brush the frog so you can paint them together. I don’t have a picture wire brushing the frog, but you will want a course and a fine wire brush like this one:
It’s typically easier on the frog to tape off the areas to not be painted. If the base hasn’t been cleaned up I don’t bother, but of I have the rest of the base complete, I’ll mask it with painter tape.
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Next paint it. I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint orRust-Oleum Hammered Black. I find the Dupli-Color to be a little closer to the original finish.
I try to paint the frog and base together just to save time.
I may take the fork off if it comes apart easily. I paint the fork as well.
Next Polish the sides of the base. I use a belt sander, but have done a few by hand sanding.
Flatten the frog. File the frog flat. It really doesn’t matter if you do this before or after painting. I usually wind up doing it after. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing it. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.
Check and fix the cap iron. First thing I do is wire brush it. It should be re-rusted by now with whatever you decided, or you can just wire brush it. I find I will wire brush it first, then throw it in the evapo-rust if It still needs a little help. You can also touch it to a belt sander to shine it up a bit if needed. I go into more detail here.
Now for the wood. I chuck the knob in the drill press.
Sand it with 60 grit if it still has a varnish or hard finish. then up through 500 grit. If it had an oil finish I’ll start with 220 grit. First few coats of BLO goes on with steel wool while in the drill press.
Finish the wood with boiled linseed oil. If its a really dry old piece, soak it in tyhe BLO overnight.
If you need to make a new tote.
If you need to fix a broken tote
For the adjustment knob, I wire brush the outside. I try the fine brush first, if its bad enough you’ll need to start with the course, just be careful, you can take the ridges off. When I chuck it in the drill press I will add a piece of paper towel or rag between the jaws and the knob. I then rip some pieces of sand paper about 1/4” by 1” and sand the inside. If itsa bad I’ll start with 120 grit up to 500 grid.
The brass nuts that holds the knob and tote on will go straight to the buffing wheel.
Cap Irons get wire brushed. I usually leave it with the brushed look. This Millers Falls was chromed, but it was shot, so I took it right off and left it. I painted this one on a Solar.
Next flatten the sole. I don’t have a piece of granite yet, so I’m still doing it on the table saw top. If it proves to be real bad, I’ll start it on the belt sander, like I do the sides, but I always finish it on the flatter surface of the table saw. Turn the plane front and push in all directions to keep it flat and even.
Wire brush all the remaining screws and washers.
As I’m putting everything together I give it a coat of Fluid Film to keep the rust away.
And a few more “After” pictures.
I have some more to put in here, but its late so maybe tomorrow night. I haven’t proof read it yet, so feel free to point out the mistakes.